Kayaking in Antarctica is magical. Away from the noise of the ship or a zodiac, you feel much closer to the landscape. Dad and I paddled around in a double kayak in the still waters near Cuverville Island. It’s by no means silent – penguins call in their colony, paddles slip and splash in the water – but over it all there’s this feeling of immense space and wildness that nearly sings. We scooped a little chunk of sea-weathered glacial ice out of the water and had a nibble. A little salty from time in the ocean, but refreshing and pure.

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