Let’s start off the proper Antarctica blog posts with a trip-log! Here’s an overview of what we did during our time on the expedition.

Day 1: Buenos Aires

After our few solitary days in Buenos Aires we joined up with the expedition and toured around the city to the Recoleta Cemetery (again!), La Boca, and the Buenos Aires Metropolitan Cathedral.

Day 2: Ushuaia and the Beagle Channel

An early start in the dark had the unexpected highlight of seeing hundreds of bats swooping around the outside of our hotel! We departed from the Aeroparque and flew four hours to Ushuaia, the most southerly city in the world (with roughly the same population as Rotorua!). After bussing through the wild Tierra del Fuego National Park, we had lunch on a catamaran as we cruised the Beagle Channel. Dad and I had the time of our lives, pressed to the front of the boat taking photographs of everything. It was a perfect day, still water, bright sky, wildlife absolutely everywhere. At the end of the day we boarded our ship, and departed from Ushuaia through the Beagle Channel, heading for the open sea.

Day 3: The Drake Passage

We had a very calm crossing, with 3-5 metre swells. Sea-sickness medication worked it’s wonders on me, and we spent most of the day on deck photographing seabirds in between listening to lectures by the naturalists. The sea was such a deep, inky blue, tossed turquoise in our wake.

Day 4: The South Shetland Islands and Deception Island

Having crossed the Convergence overnight we woke in the mist, with icebergs looming in and out of view. A huge flock of Black-browed Albatross (Mollymawks) and Giant Petrels bobbed along on the waves, then took off and circled into the gloom. Our first landing after lunch was at Hannah Point on Livingston Island. It was muddy, sleety, and wonderful. Colonies of Chinstrap and Gentoo Penguins brayed, and a few lonely Macaroni Penguins sheltered amongst their cousins. There was a pile of Elephant Seals in the distance, and Southern Giant Petrels breeding on the heights. After dinner we cruised into the caldera of Deception Island through Neptune’s Bellows as the sun went down.

Day 5: Cuverville Island and Neko Harbour

More mist, and we got snowed on landing at Cuverville Island. I enjoyed photographing the Gentoos and the South Polar Skua on the tumblestone beach, peppered with green whale bones. After weaving through icebergs to get back to the ship we went kayaking in the still water, until snow drove us back for lunch! Our landing at Neko Harbour – our first step on the Continent – was much clearer. We hiked up to look out over the Gentoo Colony, glacier bay and huge icebergs. Humpback Whales surfaced right next to the ship!

Day 6: The Lemaire Channel, Booth and Petermann Islands

Up early to plough through the howling winds in the Lemaire Channel, surrounded by daunting mountains and glaciers. Emerging into the still Penola Strait, we cruised in the Zodiacs amidst arching icebergs, more Humpback Whales, Leopard and Crabeater Seals. Another steep hike at our landing on Booth Island, and our first sighting of Adelie Penguins! After lunch we landed on Petermann Island and got very snowed on while watching more Adelie Penguins toboggan down the hill. The ship constantly turned out in the brash ice to keep water clear for the zodiacs.

Day 7: The Antarctic Circle – Detaille Island and Crystal Sound

A crystal clear day after passing 66°33′45.7″ South. After navigating through huge pancakes of sea-ice and bobbing icebergs, we landed on Detaille Island after meeting a few seals. Our first experience of an old British Antarctic Base – Base W – was a step back in time to the 1960’s. The afternoon Dad and I spent on the bow, hoping for sightings of Snow Petrels. Despite the temptation of a beer and german sausage barbecue on the aft-deck, we persisted and were well rewarded. We toasted the Boss – Shackleton – after a perfect day in Antarctica. The evening surpassed the perfection of the day, with complete stillness as the sun set and the moon rose. Gliding through a gradient of pastels, we stayed out on deck long after the sun had disappeared, marvelling at the otherworldly beauty that surrounded us.

Day 8: Port Lockroy and Paradise Harbour

The wind nearly drove us from Port Lockroy, but we managed the landing and met a few new faces at British Base A, recreated as a museum and the most southerly Post Office in the world. We sailed through the Gerlache Strait in whipping winds, clinging to the bow to photograph Killer Whales. Paradise Harbour lived up to its name and was a calm oasis. Penguins porpoised and curious Minke Whales circled us as we took to the Zodiacs for the afternoon. After some rather fabulous hot chocolate, Dad and I spent the rest of the afternoon on the Observation deck photographing the birds that flew back and forth along the cliffs.

Day 9: Danco Island – our last landing

A steep hike awaited us on Danco Island, not far from our earlier landing point on Cuverville Island. I think it was a ploy to tire us all out before we set off for the Drake Passage again. I spent as long as possible on the island, disinterested in the Polar Plunge in favour of spending time with penguins. We met more Killer Whales as we left through Dallmann Bay, and Dad and I clung to the bow as the wind began to stir up the waves and a Southern Giant Petrel wheeled over us, close enough to touch.

Day 10: The Drake Passage

The sea-sickness medication knocked me for six and I slept late, but otherwise enjoyed the day out on deck looking for seabirds as the swells tipped us around. Coming to terms with leaving Antarctica was made easier by the day at sea, watching the horizon tilt and listening to more great lectures from the Naturalists and guest speakers.

Day 11: The Drake Passage and the Beagle Channel

Cormorants were the first sign of land, and we were farewelled by a vast Wandering Albatross. My only sighting of Magellanic Penguins resulted in one far-away photo of them faceplanting the water! Dusky Dolphins escorted us through the Beagle Channel, much to my delight. We rushed to get photos processed for the shared folder and slideshow at the farewell party, and spent one last night in our cabin on the ship.

Day 12: Ushuaia and Buenos Aires

Briefly considered stowing away as we disembarked into the rain. Ushuaia was blue, grey, and quiet. I actually don’t remember much of the flight back to Buenos Aires, but arriving in the heat was unpleasant. It felt as if years had passed since we had last been there. We had another night’s rest before beginning the long journey home to New Zealand.