This day was probably my favourite, and it just kept getting better! After starting the day with cute seals, Detaille Island, exploring Base W and whale-watching (and all that before lunch!), our ship headed south through Crystal Sound. It lived up to the name – the water was glassy and the air still. Reflected sunlight from glaciers and icebergs made everything bright, and I wished there was a way to wear sunglasses and take photographs at the same time!   Dad and I were hanging out on the bow of the ship, armed with cameras. This was our only opportunity to maybe see Snow Petrels, gorgeous little birds with completely white plumage that has led to their informal titling as the “Angels of Antarctica”. They have one of the southernmost breeding ranges of any bird, and are one of only three species that have been seen at the South Pole. They nest on mountains and cliffs that can be over 400km inland, and forage in icy waters for small fish, squid and krill.

We had a lot of luck with seeing them – off in the distance sitting on icebergs, or flying away. It was nearly impossible to focus on them against a background of ice-studded water. But we waited, and took landscape photographs in the meanwhile, chatted to the others who were admiring the view. Minke whales surfaced every now and then, causing little flurries of excitement. The invitation came over the PA system for German sausages and beer on the back deck. Dad and I looked at each other and grinned as everyone else disappeared. You can have German sausages and beer whenever you want. You can’t wait for Snow Petrels whenever you want. And patience isn’t always rewarded, but we were lucky.  

Snow Petrels forage aerially by stalling to the surface and diving or lunging in to grab their prey. So when a few started to accompany the ship and forage beside it, our patience was rewarded with gorgeous reflections. Dad has some amazing photographs that he will no doubt share at some point! 

To top off the afternoon, these amazing birds swooped low over the bow of the ship – close enough to touch! I think I stood in silent awe, but I may have been giggling with delight (something I apparently do!). I could feel the little gusts from their wings brush over my head, hear their feathers sweep through the air. It was an experience in itself, entirely apart from the joy of photographing them, that I will never forget.