I think by now it’s obvious that I’m in love with Antarctica. The time we spent there was like a dream, but also so raw and real that not a day has gone by without me thinking of it, remembering it. Danco Island was our last stop before we headed off into the Drake Passage once more. We arrived to low, dark clouds, and decided to forgo another kayaking opportunity to spend time with the penguins.

Danco Island is home to a huge colony of Gentoo penguins that stretches all the way from the shore to the summit. We often had to wait for penguin traffic to pass on our climb to the top, standing back as they waddled along their penguin paths. 

The clouds broke every now and then, spilling sunlight across glaciers and mountains. Skuas tussled in the air and then teamed up to steal eggs from unwary penguins. We hiked to the top of the island to look out across the bay to Cuverville Island, one of our first landings. We’d seen so much since then, but it had been only a few days since we’d landed, and kayaked in the bay.

I don’t know how long we spent on Danco Island. It didn’t feel like long enough. We were chivvied back to the ship, with the excitement of a ‘Polar Plunge’ stirring most people into action. Shrieks echoed from the mud room as they dove into the icy waters in a well-orchestrated progression. I’d dipped my arm in on the Zodiac ride back to the ship, and had thought better of it. Dad and I escaped to the Chart Room for hot chocolates instead, and watched as rafts of penguins flew through the clear waters at the bow of the ship.