Skuas, Skuas Everywhere
Skuas get a bad rap. People just don't like things that eat cute fluffy penguin chicks. But they do have fluffy chicks of their own to feed, and there's not…
Deception Island Sunset
All evening as we'd been eating dinner, Dad and I had been staring out the window as icebergs and behemoths of stone slipped past. We were headed for Deception Island,…
Hannah Point – First Landing
Mud, rain and guano. That was our first landing in Antarctica, at Hannah Point on Livingston Island in the South Shetland Islands. The landing was wet on tumbled stone, and…
Seabirds and Scopoderm – Crossing the Drake Passage
I get quite badly seasick. I was dreading crossing the notorious Drake Passage more than anything, so Dad and I had applied Scopoderm patches and taken supplementary medication before bed…
Antarctica Teaser #7 – Levitating Chinstrap
If you follow me on instagram (@edinzphoto), you'll have seen this photo already! We saw Chinstrap penguins the least (well, apart from the three Macaroni penguins at Hannah Point), but…
Cruising the Beagle Channel
What a day. We hadn't even begun our true adventure yet, and both Dad and I agreed it had been one of the best days of our lives. After bussing…
Antarctica Teaser #6 – Penguin Footprints
A memory that is very clear for me is the sound of penguin footsteps - on snow, rock, mud - pattering along with an industrious determination. They seem so serious…
Antarctica – Trip Log
Let's start off the proper Antarctica blog posts with a trip-log! Here's an overview of what we did during our time on the expedition. Day 1: Buenos Aires After our…
Adelie Penguin Tobogganing – Antarctica Teaser #5
Adelie penguins are my favourite brush-tailed (genus Pygoscelis) penguins - sorry Chinstraps and Gentoos! Of the three Pygoscelis species, they are the smallest and the only ones that toboggan along on their…
Birding in Buenos Aires – Costanera Sur
Next week we leave the tropics behind for colder climates! Dad and I wouldn't choose cities as a holiday destination. Our time in Buenos Aires was just a necessary step…
Base W – Antarctica Teaser #4
Looking out from Base W, Detaille Island, Lallemand Fjord. Base W was occupied during the International Geophysical Year, and was abandoned after inclement weather prevented the supply ship from reaching…
The Recoleta Cemetery Stained Glass Windows
Stained glass windows are works of art. They look dull and mundane unless lit from behind, and then they glow like jewels. I've seen a few impressive ones during my travels…
Kayaking in Antarctica – Antarctica Teaser #3
Kayaking in Antarctica is magical. Away from the noise of the ship or a zodiac, you feel much closer to the landscape. Dad and I paddled around in a double…
The Recoleta Cemetery Cats
A cemetery seems an odd tourist destination (especially for those mainly interested in wildlife!), but as it was right next door to our accommodation and highly recommended, we decided to pay…
An Adelie on an Iceberg – Antarctica Teaser #2
An Adelie on an Iceberg, regarding us curiously. Perhaps one day I'll be lucky enough to have an evening like this again. The sun was setting, the moon was rising,…